A zone that will not turn on, or will not turn off, and the wrong first guess at why.
The two failures get diagnosed in opposite directions and mixing them up wastes a service call. A zone that will not turn on at all gets checked controller first, then wiring, then solenoid, then valve body last — because the valve body itself is the least likely point of failure and the most expensive to replace unnecessarily. A cut or corroded wire, a bad connection at the valve, or a controller output that has died are all more common and all cheaper to fix.
A zone that will not turn off runs the opposite way: it is almost always debris — a bit of grit or a piece of the diaphragm — caught in the valve seat and holding it open, not a valve that has failed structurally. That gets cleared by opening the valve and cleaning the seat, which is a very different job from replacing wiring, and confusing the two symptoms is how people end up paying to replace parts that were never the problem.
Describe the symptom and we will match you with an irrigation contractor who traces the actual cause before replacing anything.
Get an Irrigation Pro OutA rough description is plenty — we will follow up to narrow it down before anyone comes out.
